Suede Glossary
A comprehensive reference of suede and leather terminology - from raw materials and tanning processes to care techniques and garment construction. Understanding these terms helps you make informed decisions about genuine suede coats, jackets, and outerwear.
B
- Breathability
- The ability of a material to allow air and moisture vapour to pass through it. Genuine suede is naturally breathable due to its open fibre structure, making suede coats comfortable across multiple seasons - a key advantage over synthetic alternatives.
C
- Chrome Tanning
- A tanning method using chromium salts that produces soft, supple leather in a fraction of the time required by vegetable tanning. Chrome-tanned suede is known for its consistent colour, softness, and flexibility - qualities essential for premium suede coats and jackets.
- Colour Fast
- A term describing dye that resists fading or running when exposed to light, water, or friction. High-quality suede used in luxury outerwear undergoes colour-fast dyeing processes to ensure rich, consistent colour that endures through years of wear.
D
- Double-Faced Suede
- A construction technique where both sides of the hide are finished to create a garment that is suede on both the interior and exterior. This premium method results in a luxurious hand-feel inside and out, commonly used in high-end suede coats.
F
- Full-Grain Leather
- The outermost layer of the animal hide, retaining its natural grain pattern. While suede is not full-grain (it comes from the underside), understanding the distinction is essential: full-grain is smoother and more water-resistant, while suede offers superior softness and breathability.
- Faux Suede (Microsuede)
- A synthetic fabric engineered to mimic the look and feel of genuine suede, typically made from polyester microfibre. While more water-resistant and affordable, faux suede lacks the breathability, ageing character, and tactile richness of genuine suede leather.
- Flesh Side
- The inner surface of an animal hide. This softer, more fibrous layer is what becomes suede when buffed and finished. The quality of the flesh side - its fibre uniformity and thickness - directly determines the quality of the resulting suede.
G
- Genuine Suede
- Suede made from real animal hide - as opposed to synthetic (faux) suede made from polyester or microfibre. Genuine suede is prized for its natural breathability, rich texture, and the way it develops character over time. All Lustré outerwear is crafted from 100% genuine suede.
- Grain Side
- The outer surface of an animal hide - the side that faces outward when the animal is alive. In suede production, the hide is split and the grain side becomes smooth leather, while the inner (flesh) side is buffed to create the characteristic suede texture.
H
- Hide
- The raw skin of an animal before or during the tanning process. Suede quality begins with hide selection - premium hides exhibit uniform thickness, strong fibre density, and minimal surface imperfections, all of which influence the final softness and durability of the suede.
L
- Lasting
- In garment construction, the process of shaping the material to the intended form. For suede outerwear, lasting involves careful steaming, pressing, and hand-shaping to achieve clean lines and consistent structure without damaging the delicate nap.
N
- Nap
- The soft, raised surface of suede created by brushing the inner side of the animal hide. The nap gives suede its signature velvety texture and determines how light reflects off the material, creating its characteristic tonal depth.
- Nubuck
- A type of leather made from the outer (grain) side of the hide, sanded or buffed to create a soft, velvety surface similar to suede. Nubuck is generally more durable and stain-resistant than suede but has a finer, shorter nap. Both materials require similar care routines.
- Nap Direction
- The direction in which suede fibres naturally lie after brushing. Suede appears lighter when fibres are brushed away from the viewer and darker when brushed towards - this is why suede can look different in different lighting or when panels are cut in varying directions.
P
- Patina
- The natural surface change that develops on suede and leather over time through regular wear. Genuine suede develops a unique patina that adds character and depth - a sign of quality rather than deterioration.
S
- Split Leather
- Leather produced from the lower (flesh) side of an animal hide after it has been split into layers. Suede is a type of split leather, prized for its softer, more pliable texture compared to the outer grain layer. High-quality suede comes from premium-grade splits with uniform fibre density.
- Suede Brush
- A specialised grooming tool with rubber, brass, or nylon bristles designed to clean suede without damaging the delicate nap. Regular brushing lifts dirt, restores the fibre direction, and keeps suede coats looking fresh between professional cleanings.
- Suede Protector Spray
- A water- and stain-repellent spray formulated specifically for suede and nubuck. Applied before first wear and reapplied periodically, it creates an invisible barrier that helps suede resist moisture, oils, and everyday marks without altering the texture.
- Suede Eraser
- A block-shaped cleaning tool (similar to a rubber eraser) used to lift scuffs, light stains, and shiny spots from suede. It works by gently abrading the surface to loosen embedded grime and restore the nap's natural texture.
- Selvedge (Selvage)
- The finished edge of a piece of material that prevents unravelling. In suede garment construction, the natural edge of the hide is carefully managed - skilled pattern-cutting minimises waste while ensuring each panel cuts from the most uniform section of the hide.
- Suede Weight
- A measure of the thickness and density of suede, typically indicated in ounces or millimetres. Lighter-weight suede (0.5–0.8mm) is used for garments like suede coats and jackets where drape and flexibility matter, while heavier suede is reserved for accessories and upholstery.
T
- Tanning
- The chemical process that converts raw animal hides into durable, workable leather. Suede undergoes specific tanning processes - most commonly chrome tanning or vegetable tanning - that preserve its softness while ensuring structural integrity.
- Trench Coat Silhouette
- A long, belted outerwear design originally developed as a military garment, now a staple of luxury fashion. The suede trench coat reinterprets this classic silhouette in soft, genuine suede - offering the same structured elegance with a more tactile, contemporary character.
V
- Vegetable Tanning
- An ancient tanning process using natural tannins extracted from tree bark, leaves, and other plant materials. Vegetable-tanned suede tends to develop a richer patina over time and is considered more environmentally sustainable, though the process takes significantly longer.